Questions About Cannabis?
Seedtiva Knowledge Base
GROWING CANNABIS FAQ
Everything from cracking your first seed to curing a finished jar — germination, light, VPD, feeding, pests, harvest timing, breeding, and how ordering works. Written for growers, free to read, no signup, no ads.
Start here
MOST ASKED
The 14 questions we answer most often
If you are here with one specific question, it is probably one of these. Everything below this section goes deeper.
How long does it take to grow cannabis from seed?
Autoflowers: 8–11 weeks seed to harvest. Photoperiods: 12–20 weeks, because you decide how long they veg.
Then add 2 weeks drying and at least 2–4 weeks curing before it is worth smoking. So a realistic seed-to-jar figure is about 14 weeks for an auto and 18–24 for a photoperiod. The harvest date planner in chapter 12 gives you actual dates from your sowing date.
Do cannabis seeds need light to germinate?
No — the opposite. Germinate in darkness. Light is only needed once the seedling breaks the surface, and even then it wants gentle light (200–400 PPFD), not full flowering intensity.
How deep should I plant a cannabis seed?
About 1cm (roughly half an inch). Deeper than about 1.5cm and the seedling can exhaust its stored energy before it reaches the surface.
Cover loosely. Do not press the medium down — compacting it is the second most common reason a viable seed never surfaces.
Why is my seed not sprouting after a week?
Check temperature first — it is the cause more often than everything else combined. Under 65°F (18°C) germination stalls and rot gets ahead of the root.
Then check depth (too deep), moisture (waterlogged or dried out), and whether you have been digging it up to look. Landrace and older seed genuinely can take 7–14 days, so patience is sometimes the answer. If none of that applies, contact us — the guarantee covers the whole order.
How many plants can I grow in a 4x4 tent?
4–9, depending on how you train them. Four in 5-gallon pots trained wide, or 8–9 smaller plants in a sea-of-green. The space planner in chapter 12 sizes pots, wattage and extraction from your exact footprint.
Canopy coverage decides yield, not plant count. Nine cramped plants and four well-trained ones fill the same square footage and yield about the same — but the cramped version has worse airflow and more mold risk.
What light do I need for a 4x4 tent?
Roughly 480–640 actual watts at the wall for flowering. Ignore any ‘equivalent to’ marketing number entirely.
Look for the real draw and a PPFD map. Target 400–600 PPFD in veg and 600–900 in flower at canopy height.
How much does it cost to grow one plant?
The plant is nearly free; the environment is what costs money. Electricity for a 300W light on 18/6 at $0.17/kWh runs about $0.92 a day, or roughly $90 across a 14-week run regardless of whether you grow one plant or six under it.
That is why growing a single plant is the most expensive way to do it per gram. The cost calculator in chapter 3 works it out for your rates.
What is the easiest strain to grow for a beginner?
A feminized autoflower, almost regardless of which one. No sexing, no light-cycle flip, no light-leak risk, compact plants, and finished in 8–11 weeks so a mistake costs you two months rather than five.
Avoid landrace lines for a first grow: they are regular seed (half will be male), they stretch enormously, and some flower for 14–16 weeks.
When do I switch my lights to 12/12?
When the plant fills about half the height you can give it. Most strains double during the first 2–3 weeks of flower.
Autoflowers never need this — they flower on their own schedule and are happiest on 18/6 or 20/4 throughout.
How do I know when to harvest?
Look at the trichomes on the buds under a jeweler's loupe or a cheap USB microscope — not the sugar leaves, which ripen earlier and will fool you.
Mostly cloudy with 10–20% amber suits most people. Clear means too early. Heavy amber means more sedating. Pistil color is a rough hint only.
Why are my leaves turning yellow?
Bottom leaves, evenly yellow, rest of the plant fine: nitrogen — and completely normal in late flower.
Top leaves, yellow between green veins: iron, almost always a pH lockout.
Everything at once: check pH and root health before adding anything. The triage tool in chapter 5 narrows it down from what you can see.
How much yield should I expect?
Plan on 0.5 g per watt for a first grow, 0.8–1.0 once you are comfortable, and 1.2–1.5 in a dialled room. A 300W light returns roughly 150g on a first attempt and 400g from the same light and seeds once you know what you are doing.
Grower skill moves this far more than genetics do. Treat any single-number yield claim, including ours, as a ceiling under ideal conditions.
Are feminized seeds guaranteed female?
Very close to it, but not absolutely. Feminized seed is bred so that no male chromosome is present, so it produces female plants reliably.
What can still happen is a plant turning hermaphrodite under stress — light leaks in the dark period, heat, severe over- or under-feeding, or being left far past ripeness. That is a stress response rather than a seed fault, and it is largely within your control.
How should I store seeds I am not planting yet?
Cool, dark, dry and airtight. A sealed container in the fridge covers all four. Kept that way, cannabis seed stays viable for years.
Leave them in the mylar or vial we shipped them in — that packaging is already doing most of the work. Let a cold container reach room temperature before opening it, or condensation forms straight onto the shells.
Not here? Use the search at the top — it looks inside every answer on this page, not just the titles.
Chapter 02
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Seed choice · germination · storage
Most failed grows are decided before the light ever comes on — wrong seed type for the space, a germination method fighting the environment, or seed that was stored badly for a year. This chapter covers the decisions you only get to make once.
Interactive
Which seed type suits your grow?
Three questions. It weighs the trade-offs rather than just naming a category.
The method we recommend
Of everything below, one approach consistently gives the best results and the fewest failures: a short soak in clean water, then straight into pre-moistened potting mix. It takes the one real advantage of soaking — softening the shell and triggering the seed — and pairs it with the one real advantage of planting direct: the taproot is never touched, never dried out, and never transplanted.
Soak 12–36 hours, then plant
Plain, clean, room-temperature water — nothing added. A shot glass or small cup is ideal. Keep it somewhere warm and dark at 70–80°F (21–27°C).
12–36 hoursA high-quality, well-draining potting mix, dampened evenly before the seed goes in — moist enough to hold shape when squeezed, not wet enough to drip. Watering after planting shifts the seed and compacts the mix around it.
While the seed soaksMake a small hole with a pencil or your finger, drop the seed in, and cover loosely. Do not press it down. If a taproot has already emerged, point it downward.
Straight from the glassA humidity dome, a clear cup or cling film over the pot holds moisture at the surface. Keep it warm. Do not dig it up to check — that is what kills most of the seeds that would otherwise have made it.
2–5 days to surfaceWater penetrates the shell and signals the seed to start. Old or hard-shelled seed — landrace lines especially — benefits most. Stop at 36 hours: past that the water is oxygen-depleted and you begin drowning it.
Every transfer risks the taproot and every minute in open air risks it drying. Planting direct removes both. There is no transplant shock because there is no transplant.
Seedlings drown far more often than they starve. A well-draining mix holds moisture without going waterlogged, and pre-moistening means the seed sits in even dampness from the first minute rather than being flooded on day one.
Every method compared
The others all work too. They differ in how much they forgive: how easily the seed dries out, how much handling the taproot takes, and how quickly you find out something went wrong.
| Method | Typical crack | Root handling | Dries out | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Soak → plant Recommended | 12–36 h + 2–5 d | None | No | Almost everyone, almost every time |
| Paper towel | 24–72 h | Two moves | Easily | Watching progress, small batches |
| Glass of water only | 12–36 h soak | One move | No | Old or hard-shelled seed |
| Straight to medium | 3–7 days | None | If topsoil dries | Least risk, no transplant shock |
| Starter cubes | 2–5 days | None | If cube dries | Consistency across many seeds |
The number that matters most is temperature. Cannabis seed germinates reliably at 70–80°F (21–27°C). Below about 65°F (18°C) it slows badly and rot gets ahead of the root; above 85°F (29°C) you cook it. A cold windowsill in February fails far more seeds than any choice of paper towel brand.
How do I germinate cannabis seeds?
Soak, then plant. Hold everything at 70–80°F (21–27°C) in the dark.
- Soak 12–36 hours in clean, plain, room-temperature water. Nothing added. Seeds that sink are hydrated; floaters usually just need a gentle nudge under.
- Pre-moisten a high-quality, well-draining potting mix while the seed soaks — damp enough to hold shape when squeezed, not wet enough to drip.
- Plant about 1cm deep, straight from the glass. Cover loosely, do not press down. If a taproot has already shown, point it downward.
- Cover to hold surface humidity — a dome, a clear cup, or cling film over the pot.
- Leave it alone. Most of our stock breaks the surface in 2–5 days. Landrace and older seed can take a week or more.
Do not exceed 36 hours in water: past that it is oxygen-depleted and you start drowning the seed. Do not dig it up to check — that kills more viable seed than any other single habit.
Do not help the shell off either. If it lifts with the seedling, mist it and wait — pulling it takes the cotyledons with it.
Why did my seeds not germinate?
In rough order of how often it turns out to be the cause:
- Too cold. Under 65°F (18°C) germination stalls and rot wins. Most common cause by a distance.
- Too wet. Seed sitting in water rather than damp material suffocates. Damp, not soaked.
- Too deep. Past about 1.5cm the seedling exhausts itself before reaching light.
- Handled too much. Every check risks the taproot and dries the towel.
- Old or badly stored seed. Heat and humidity kill viability faster than age alone.
If you followed all of that and still got nothing, contact us. Our guarantee covers the whole order, not a prorated portion of it.
How long do cannabis seeds stay viable?
Stored properly — cool, dark, dry, airtight — cannabis seed stays viable for years, and germination rates fall gradually rather than falling off a cliff. Stored badly it can be dead inside a single warm summer.
The four things that kill it are heat, light, moisture and repeated temperature swings. A sealed container in the fridge handles all four. The foil mylar or crush-proof vial we ship in is already doing most of that job, so the simplest approach is to leave seed in its original packaging inside a sealed box in the fridge.
Let a cold container reach room temperature before opening it. Warm air hitting cold seed condenses moisture straight onto the shells.
Should I soak seeds before planting?
Optional for fresh seed, genuinely useful for old or hard-shelled seed such as landrace lines. A 12–24 hour soak in plain room-temperature water softens the shell and triggers the seed to start.
Do not exceed about 24 hours. Beyond that the seed is sitting in oxygen-depleted water and you start drowning it. Plain water is enough — hydrogen peroxide, sugar and similar additions solve a problem most growers do not have.
What is the difference between feminized, autoflowering and regular seeds?
Feminized seed is bred to produce female plants, so you are not pulling males out of your room. Nearly everything we sell is feminized.
Autoflowering describes when the plant flowers, not its sex. Autos start flowering on their own schedule after a few weeks regardless of light hours — no 12/12 flip, no light-leak anxiety, roughly 8–11 weeks seed to harvest. Our autos are feminized too.
Regular seed produces both sexes at roughly 50/50. That is deliberate for our landrace lines: you need males to breed, and a landrace you cannot breed from is not much use as a landrace.
Can I grow autoflowers and photoperiods in the same tent?
Yes, with one catch: they want different light schedules. Autos are happy on 18/6 or 20/4 for their whole life; photoperiods need 12/12 to flower.
Run the tent on 18/6 and the autos finish normally while the photoperiods stay in veg indefinitely. Flip to 12/12 and the photos flower, but the autos get 6 fewer hours of light per day for the rest of their run, which costs yield.
It works best as a staggered schedule: start photos, veg them under 18/6 alongside autos, then flip once the autos are harvested.
How many seeds should I start for the plants I want?
For feminized seed, start roughly 10–20% more than your target plant count. Germination is high but not perfect, and seedlings occasionally fail for reasons unrelated to the seed.
For regular seed, expect about half to be male, so start at least double — more if you also want to select the best female from the group.
For a phenotype hunt, population is the whole point: 20 plants might show you two keepers, 100 will show you several and let you be picky. That is what the 100-seed bulk tier exists for.
Do I need to sex my plants?
Only with regular seed. Feminized and feminized autoflower seed is bred to be female, so you can skip it.
With regular seed, preflowers appear at the nodes after roughly 4–6 weeks. Females show a small pear-shaped calyx with a white hair (pistil); males show a round ball on a short stalk with no hair. Pull males before those balls open unless you are deliberately breeding — one that opens will pollinate the whole room and every bud goes to seed.
Chapter 03
SETUP & COST
Indoor vs outdoor · budget · electricity
Indoor growing is a controlled environment you pay for in electricity. Outdoor is free light and weather you cannot control. Most of the cost argument comes down to how much of the year you want to be harvesting.
- Harvests year-round — 3 to 5 runs a year regardless of season
- Full control of light, temperature, humidity and feeding
- Discreet — nothing visible, no smell outside if filtered
- Electricity is the running cost, and it is not small
- Every environmental problem is now yours to solve
- Free light — the single biggest cost disappears
- Much larger plants, and far higher yield per plant
- Low setup cost — soil, pots, water
- One harvest a year, on the season's schedule
- Weather, pests, wildlife and visibility are all real risks
Interactive
Indoor grow cost calculator
Set your own numbers. Everything below recalculates — setup, running cost, and what that works out to per gram at your expected yield.
Setup is one-off; running cost repeats every cycle. The per-gram figure below splits them so you can see how quickly the setup amortises.
Where the money actually goes
Rough shares of a first indoor setup. The light is the one component worth overspending on: it sets your ceiling for every run afterwards, and cheap lights cost more in electricity per gram than they save at purchase.
How much does it cost to set up an indoor grow?
Use the calculator above for your own numbers, but as a shape: a complete first 4×4 setup — tent, LED, extraction and filter, fans, pots, medium, nutrients, meters and timers — typically lands in the low-to-mid hundreds, with the light and the extraction accounting for most of it.
You can go much cheaper by growing in a spare cupboard with a smaller light, and much more expensive with sealed rooms and CO2. The cost that surprises people is not the kit, it is the electricity across the run — which is exactly why the calculator puts them side by side.
How much electricity does growing cannabis use?
It is straightforward arithmetic: watts × hours ÷ 1000 × rate.
A 300W light on 18 hours a day draws 5.4 kWh daily. At $0.17/kWh that is about $0.92 a day, or roughly $90 across a 14-week run. Flip to 12/12 for flower and the same light costs a third less per day.
Add roughly 10–20% on top for extraction fans, circulation and any dehumidifier. The dehumidifier is the one that quietly doubles a bill in a humid climate.
Is soil or hydroponics better?
Different trade-offs, not a ranking.
Soil buffers mistakes. It holds nutrients and pH, so an error takes days to become visible and days to correct — which gives you time to notice. Living soil also does a lot of the feeding for you. Slower growth, more forgiving, cheaper to start.
Hydroponics gives faster growth and bigger yields because roots get oxygen and food directly. It also has no buffer at all: a pH drift or pump failure shows up in hours, not days. More equipment, more monitoring, more upside.
Coco coir sits between the two and is where a lot of growers land — hydroponic speed with some of soil's physical forgiveness.
What size light do I need?
Work from coverage, not from a wattage number on a box. A useful planning figure is 30–40 actual watts per square foot of canopy for flowering LEDs.
- 2×2 ft (4 sq ft) — roughly 120–160W
- 4×4 ft (16 sq ft) — roughly 480–640W
- 5×5 ft (25 sq ft) — roughly 750–1000W
Ignore 'equivalent to 2000W' marketing entirely and look for the actual draw at the wall and the PPFD map. Seedlings want roughly 200–400 PPFD, veg 400–600, flower 600–900. Higher than that without CO2 enrichment mostly wastes electricity.
Do I need a carbon filter?
If anyone might smell it, yes. Flowering cannabis is genuinely pungent and the smell carries further than growers expect, particularly in the last few weeks.
Size the fan to your tent volume and aim to exchange the air roughly every one to three minutes. Filter on the intake side of the fan (pulling through), and replace the carbon when smell starts getting past it — typically after 12–24 months of running.
How many plants can I fit in a tent?
Space is decided by canopy, not by pot count. Cramming plants in gives you the same total yield with worse airflow and more mold risk.
- 2×2 — 1 large or 2–4 small autos
- 4×4 — 4 in bigger pots, or 6–9 smaller in a sea-of-green
- 5×5 — 6–9 comfortably
Check your local plant-count limits before you plan around any of this. They vary widely and count plants, not canopy area.
Can I grow outdoors without anyone noticing?
Partly. The realistic measures are: grow where there is no sightline from a neighboring window or path, use companion planting so the shape does not read as cannabis from a distance, choose shorter indica-leaning or autoflowering plants rather than a 10ft sativa, and accept that the last few weeks of flower will smell.
Autoflowers are genuinely useful here: they finish in 8–11 weeks, stay small, and can be run early or late in the season away from the obvious harvest window.
When should I plant outdoors?
For photoperiods in the northern hemisphere, put plants out after the last frost once night temperatures hold above roughly 50°F (10°C) — typically May into early June. They will flower as day length falls in late summer and finish September into October.
Autoflowers ignore day length, so you can plant them any time the weather is warm enough and harvest 8–11 weeks later. That makes two or even three outdoor runs possible in a long season, which photoperiods cannot do.
Chapter 04
RUNNING THE GROW
Timeline · VPD · pH · feeding · training
Four numbers do most of the work: light intensity, vapour pressure deficit, root-zone pH, and feed strength. Get those in range and the plant largely looks after itself. This chapter is mostly about reading them.
The grow timeline
Photoperiods and autoflowers run on different clocks. The bar below is the whole cycle from seed; hover or tap a stage for what it needs.
VPD — the number most growers ignore first
Vapour pressure deficit is how hard the air is pulling water out of your leaves. It combines temperature and humidity into one figure, which is why chasing "60% RH" on its own does not work — 60% at 68°F (20°C) and 60% at 86°F (30°C) are completely different growing conditions.
Too low and the plant stops transpiring, so it stops moving nutrients and mold gets a foothold. Too high and it closes its stomata to save water, which shuts down growth.
Interactive
VPD chart
Green cells are in range for the selected stage. Every value is computed live from the Tetens saturation-vapour-pressure equation assuming leaf temperature runs about 3.6°F (2°C) below air, which is typical under LED without direct airflow on the canopy.
pH and what it locks out
pH does not feed the plant — it decides which nutrients the roots can absorb at all. Drift out of range and you get deficiency symptoms while the reservoir is full. This is why "my plant is yellow so I fed it more" so often makes things worse.
Target ranges: soil 6.0–7.0, coco 5.5–6.5, hydroponics 5.5–6.5. Let it drift gently across the range rather than pinning one number — different nutrients peak at different points, and a slow sweep picks up more of them than a fixed value.
How long does the vegetative stage last?
Photoperiods: as long as you want. That is the whole point of them. Typically 4–8 weeks, but you control it — flip to 12/12 when the plant fills roughly half the space you have, because most strains stretch 1.5× to 2× after the flip.
Autoflowers: not your decision. They veg for about 3–4 weeks and then flower on their own schedule. This is why you do not transplant, top or stress autos late — there is no extra veg time to recover in.
When do I switch to 12/12?
When the plant occupies about half the height and footprint you can give it. Cannabis typically doubles in height during the stretch, which runs for the first 2–3 weeks of flower.
Once flipped, 12 hours of dark must be genuinely uninterrupted. Light leaks during the dark period are a common cause of plants reverting to veg, producing airy buds, or turning hermaphrodite and seeding your own crop.
What is VPD and do I really need to care?
It is temperature and humidity expressed as one number: how strongly the air pulls moisture from the leaf. You do not strictly need it — plenty of good weed has been grown without anyone mentioning kPa — but it explains problems that temperature and humidity alone do not.
If your plants look sluggish and healthy at the same time, VPD is usually the answer. Too low means transpiration has stalled, so calcium and other nutrients moved by water flow stop arriving. Too high means the plant has shut its stomata to conserve water and photosynthesis has stopped with it. Use the chart above to see where your current numbers land.
What pH should my water be?
Soil 6.0–7.0. Coco and hydro 5.5–6.5. Measure after mixing nutrients, not before — nutrients move pH substantially.
Check runoff as well as input. If you feed at 6.2 and runoff comes back at 5.1, something in the root zone is drifting and no amount of correct input pH will fix it until you flush.
Organic or chemical nutrients?
Organic feeds the soil biology, which feeds the plant. Slower to act, very hard to burn with, and it builds a medium that gets better each run. Many growers find the end product tastes better, though that is subjective and hard to test properly.
Mineral ('chemical') salts are immediately available, precisely measurable and fast to correct. They also burn quickly if overdone and need flushing to avoid buildup.
Neither is objectively better. Organic suits soil growers who want to intervene less; mineral suits coco and hydro growers who want precise control. Mixing both approaches carelessly in the same pot is the one combination that reliably causes problems.
How often should I water?
By weight, not by schedule. Lift the pot — a dry pot is dramatically lighter than a wet one, and after a week of doing it you will not need any other method.
In soil, let the top 2–3cm dry before watering again. In coco, water little and often, with 10–20% runoff each time. Overwatering is far more common than underwatering, and it looks almost identical: droopy leaves. The difference is that an overwatered pot is heavy.
Should I top or train my plants?
If you are indoors, almost certainly. An untrained plant puts everything into one central cola and the lower growth stays small and shaded.
Topping — cut the growing tip above a node to create two. Do it in veg, and not at all on autoflowers unless you are confident.
LST (low stress training) — bend and tie branches outward to open the canopy. Safe on autos because it does not remove tissue.
SCROG — grow through a net and weave branches horizontally. Most yield per watt of any method, but needs planning before the flip.
How much light do plants need at each stage?
Measured as PPFD at canopy height:
- Seedling: 200–400 µmol/m²/s — more scorches them
- Vegetative: 400–600
- Flowering: 600–900
Past roughly 900–1000 the plant cannot use the extra light without CO2 enrichment, so you are paying for electricity that produces nothing. Raise the light rather than dim it if seedlings are stretching — stretch means too little light, not too much.
Do I need CO2?
Not until everything else is already dialled in. CO2 enrichment only pays off when light, temperature, VPD and feeding are all optimal and light intensity is high enough that CO2 has become the limiting factor — roughly 900+ PPFD in a sealed room.
In a hobby tent with an extraction fan running, added CO2 is mostly being pulled straight outside. Spend the money on a better light first.
Chapter 05
FIXING PROBLEMS
Diagnose · deficiencies · pests · mold
Almost every problem announces itself on the leaves, and almost every one is misread the same way — as "needs more food". Where the symptom appears on the plant tells you more than what it looks like.
Interactive
Symptom triage
Pick what you are seeing. This narrows on the same logic an experienced grower uses: location first, then appearance.
Mobile vs immobile nutrients
This single idea explains most deficiency diagnosis. Mobile nutrients can be moved by the plant, so when supply runs short it strips them from old leaves to feed new growth — symptoms appear at the bottom. Immobile nutrients cannot be relocated, so shortages show in new growth at the top while old leaves stay fine.
Nitrogen · Phosphorus · Potassium · Magnesium · Zinc
Lower leaves yellow or spot first while the top looks healthy.
Calcium · Iron · Sulfur · Boron · Copper · Manganese
New growth is pale, twisted or spotted while lower leaves stay green.
Before you add anything: check pH. Most "deficiencies" are lockouts — the nutrient is present in the pot but the roots cannot take it up at that pH. Feeding more of it makes the buildup worse, not better. See the pH availability chart in chapter 3.
My leaves are turning yellow. What's wrong?
Where matters more than the color.
Lower leaves, even yellowing, plant otherwise healthy: nitrogen. Normal and expected in late flower as the plant reallocates — do not correct it then.
Upper leaves, yellow between green veins: iron, usually a pH lockout rather than an actual shortage.
Middle leaves, yellow between veins with rust spots: magnesium.
Everything yellowing at once, fast: check pH and root health before nutrients. Sudden whole-plant symptoms are rarely a single deficiency.
What are the tiny bugs on my plants?
Spider mites — tiny dots on leaf undersides, fine webbing, stippled sandy speckling on top. Thrive in hot dry air. The most destructive common pest.
Fungus gnats — small black flies around the medium surface. Larvae eat roots. Caused by overwatering, so let the top layer dry properly.
Thrips — silvery winding trails on leaves, tiny slivers that move fast.
Aphids — clusters of soft green or black bodies on stems and new growth.
Treat early and treat undersides. Neem, insecticidal soap and predatory mites all work; rotate rather than repeating one product, because mites in particular build resistance quickly.
Can I spray pesticides on flowering plants?
Be very careful. Anything sprayed onto buds ends up in what you consume, and residue is difficult to remove afterwards.
Avoid oils and most sprays entirely after roughly week 3 of flower — they trap moisture in dense buds and cause the mold you were trying to avoid. Deal with pests aggressively during veg, then switch to biological controls such as predatory mites in flower.
Never use products not cleared for edible crops, regardless of what a forum post says.
How do I prevent bud rot?
Bud rot (Botrytis) starts inside dense buds where moisture cannot escape, and by the time you see gray fuzz outside, the inside is gone. Prevention is the only real strategy.
- Drop humidity to 40–50% in late flower
- Keep air genuinely moving through the canopy, not just above it
- Defoliate enough that interior buds get airflow
- Avoid large temperature swings at lights-off — that is when the air hits dew point
- Outdoors, plan around rain in the final weeks; dense indica-style buds hold water
If you find it, remove the affected bud and a margin around it immediately, and do not let the infected material touch other plants. It spreads by spores.
What is nutrient burn and how do I fix it?
Crispy brown or yellow leaf tips, working inward from the point, on otherwise healthy green leaves. It means feed strength is too high for what the plant is using.
Flush with plain pH-corrected water at roughly 2–3 times pot volume, then resume at half the strength you were using. Damaged tips do not recover — you are looking for new growth to come in clean.
Manufacturer feed charts are consistently stronger than most home grows need. Starting at half strength and working up is the usual advice for a reason.
Why are my leaves curling or clawing?
Clawing downward, dark green, glossy: too much nitrogen.
Curling upward at the edges (taco shape): heat stress or light too close.
Curling down with drooping: overwatering — lift the pot, it will be heavy.
Edges curling with crispy tips: nutrient burn.
Whole plant drooping, pot light: simply thirsty. This one recovers within hours.
My plant is stretching and stems are thin. Why?
Not enough light, almost always — the plant is reaching for it. Either the light is too far away or too weak for the space.
Lower it gradually and watch for heat stress. Some stretch during the first 2–3 weeks of flower is normal and expected; stretch during seedling and veg is a light problem.
A small fan creating gentle stem movement also thickens stems considerably. Plants grown in still air stay weak.
What is a hermaphrodite plant and what causes it?
A plant producing both female buds and male pollen sacs. It will pollinate itself and every other plant in the room, and your entire harvest goes to seed.
Causes, roughly in order: light leaks during the dark period, severe stress (heat, damage, extreme over- or under-feeding), leaving plants far past ripeness, and occasionally unstable genetics.
Remove affected plants or at minimum the sacs, as early as you can. If you find pollen sacs that have already opened, assume the room is pollinated.
Chapter 06
HARVEST & CURE
Trichomes · drying · curing · storage
More quality is lost in the two weeks after harvest than in the twelve weeks before it. Drying too fast, curing too little, or harvesting on a calendar rather than on the trichomes will undo an otherwise good run.
Reading trichomes
Harvest timing is decided under a loupe or a cheap USB microscope, looking at the resin glands on the bud — not the sugar leaves, which mature earlier and will mislead you.
Glassy and transparent. Not ready — cannabinoid content is still building. Harvesting here gives a thin, disappointing result.
Opaque white. Peak potency. Most growers want the majority here, and this is generally described as the more alert, energetic window.
Turning gold. THC is degrading toward CBN. Generally reported as heavier and more sedating. Many growers aim for 10–30% amber.
A practical target: roughly 70–80% cloudy with 10–20% amber suits most people. Want it more energetic, harvest earlier; want it heavier, let amber climb. Pistils turning brown is a rough signal only — they respond to humidity and handling, not just ripeness.
Dry and cure
The single most common mistake is drying too fast. Chlorophyll needs time to break down; rush it and you keep the harsh, grassy taste no cure will fully remove.
When should I harvest?
By trichomes, not by week number or by the breeder's estimate — those are averages across many growers in many conditions.
Use a jeweler's loupe (60× is plenty) or a USB microscope on the bud, not the sugar leaves. Harvest when most glands have gone from clear to milky white, with a minority turning amber.
Checking every day or two in the last fortnight is worth it — the window from mostly cloudy to heavily amber can be under a week.
How do I dry cannabis properly?
Slowly, in the dark. Target 60°F (15°C) / 60% RH for 7–14 days, with gentle air movement that is not blowing directly on the buds.
Hang whole branches rather than trimming to individual buds — the extra plant material slows moisture loss, which is the point. The stems should snap rather than bend when it is ready, and the outside should feel dry while the core is still slightly soft.
Drying in three days at room temperature is the most common way to ruin a good harvest.
How do I cure cannabis and why does it matter?
Curing continues breaking down chlorophyll and lets moisture redistribute from the core to the surface. It is what turns harsh into smooth.
- Once stems snap, trim and put buds into airtight glass jars, filled about three-quarters.
- Burp daily for the first week — open for 10–15 minutes to exchange air and release moisture.
- Then every few days for weeks two to four.
- Target 58–62% RH in the jar. Two-way humidity packs make this trivial.
Two weeks is noticeably better than none. Four to eight weeks is where most of the improvement lands. Some strains keep improving for months.
How should I store cured cannabis long term?
Airtight glass, cool, dark, at 58–62% RH. Light and heat degrade cannabinoids and terpenes faster than time does.
Avoid plastic bags for anything beyond a few days — static pulls trichomes off and the plastic does not seal against humidity swings. Do not freeze cured flower; ice crystals rupture the glands and the trichomes shatter off when handled.
Chapter 07
GENETICS & ORDERING
Breeding · shipping · legal · guarantee
How seeds are made, how ours get to you, and what happens if something goes wrong.
How are feminized seeds made?
By inducing a female plant to produce pollen, then using that pollen on another female. Because no male is involved, the resulting seed carries only female chromosomes.
The usual method is a foliar spray of colloidal silver or silver thiosulphate (STS) on a female, which suppresses ethylene and causes it to grow pollen sacs. That pollen is collected and applied to a separate female.
Done well, feminized seed is stable and reliable. Done badly — using a plant that hermied on its own rather than one that was chemically reversed — you propagate a genuine hermaphrodite tendency. That is why breeder selection matters more than the technique.
Can I breed my own cannabis seeds?
Yes, and it is more approachable than it sounds. You need a male and a female of the lines you want to cross, which is exactly why we sell landrace lines as regular seed.
- Select parents on traits you actually want — structure, vigor, smell, finish time. Grow enough plants to have a real choice.
- Isolate the male. Pollen travels much further than growers expect; a male anywhere in the airflow will seed everything.
- Collect pollen in a sealed container as sacs open.
- Pollinate selected branches with a brush, label them, and let the rest of the plant finish as sinsemilla.
- Harvest seed about 4–6 weeks later, when bracts split and seeds are dark with tiger stripes.
A first cross (F1) is the easy part. Stabilizing a line so it comes true takes many generations of selection.
What is a landrace and why does it matter?
A landrace is a population that adapted to one place over centuries without deliberate human crossing — Durban to South African summers, Hindu Kush to Afghan mountainsides, Colombian and Thai to equatorial day length.
They matter because every modern hybrid traces back to a handful of them, and because that original genetic diversity is steadily disappearing as regions switch to commercial hybrids. For breeders they are raw material you cannot get from a hybrid: traits that have been bred out of the modern gene pool still exist in these lines.
Expect long flowering times, tall lanky structure, and a plant far less domesticated than a modern indoor strain. That is the point of them.
How long does shipping take and is it discreet?
Most orders arrive within about 5 days, tracked and insured via USPS, FedEx or UPS.
Everything ships in plain, unbranded outer packaging with no reference to the contents anywhere on the label. Seeds travel inside lightproof, moisture-resistant foil mylar or crush-proof UV-resistant vials — light and moisture are what kill seed in transit, so we design against both. Shipping is free over $50, and free seeds are included with every order regardless of size.
What does the 100% satisfaction guarantee cover?
Everything. If you are dissatisfied with your order for any reason, we replace the entire order free of charge — not a partial credit, not store credit, and not only the portion you had a problem with. The whole order, packed and shipped again, at our expense.
We would rather carry that risk than ask you to. Contact us and we will sort it out.
Is it legal for me to buy cannabis seeds?
Cannabis law varies by country, state and municipality, and it changes often. You are responsible for confirming the rules where you live before ordering.
Our USA and global legality maps are free, need no signup, and are updated as legislation moves. Where cultivation is prohibited, seeds are sold as souvenirs and collectibles only.
This is general information, not legal advice. For a commercial-scale decision, talk to a qualified attorney in your jurisdiction.
Do you sell in bulk or wholesale?
Yes. 82 strains carry a 100-seed tier priced from $2.00 per seed, averaging about 68% below our own retail per-seed rate. No wholesale application, no minimum spend beyond a single 100-seed pack, and no annual commitment.
For higher volume, mixed cases built to a specific ratio, or private-label retail packaging, the wholesale page has an enquiry form.
What are free seeds and do I have to do anything to get them?
Nothing. Free seeds go into every order regardless of size, with no code and no minimum. Which strains you get varies with what we have surplus of — it is often something you would not have picked yourself, which is half the fun of it.
Still stuck?
The Seedtiva Forum is where growers post photos and get answers from people who have hit the same problem. For anything order-related, contact us directly — most messages get a reply within one business day.
Chapter 08
LIGHT & ENVIRONMENT
Spectrum · intensity · distance · heat
Light is the single biggest lever on yield and the single biggest line on your electricity bill. Almost everything else in the tent exists to let the plant use the light you are already paying for.
Interactive
Light hanging distance
Too close scorches, too far wastes electricity and causes stretch. Distance depends on the fixture type as much as the wattage.
What the plant does with each part of the spectrum
Modern white LEDs cover all of this. The chart is here so you can read a spectrum graph on a product page and know whether it is telling you anything useful.
What light spectrum is best for cannabis?
A full white spectrum works for the entire cycle, which is why quality LEDs stopped using purple 'blurple' arrays years ago.
If you want to bias it: blue-heavy (5000–6500K) keeps plants compact in veg, red-heavy (2700–3000K) supports flowering. Far red (730nm) can trigger faster sleep onset. But the difference between a good full-spectrum light and a perfectly tuned one is small compared with the difference between enough light and not enough.
How close should my LED be to the plants?
Depends on wattage and fixture type — use the tool above. As a rough shape: seedlings want the light far back and dim, flowering plants want it close and bright.
The reliable test is your own hand at canopy height. If the back of your hand is uncomfortable after 30 seconds, it is too close for the plant too. Better still, use a PAR meter or a phone app and work to PPFD targets.
Can I leave the light on 24 hours a day?
You can, and autoflowers will grow under it, but there is little evidence it beats 18/6 and it costs 33% more electricity. Plants do most of their root growth and cell expansion during the dark period.
18/6 or 20/4 is the sensible range for autos and for photoperiods in veg. Photoperiods must have 12 hours of genuine darkness to flower.
How dark does the dark period need to be?
Dark enough that you cannot read a newspaper in there after your eyes adjust. Small LED indicator lights on fans and timers are usually fine; a light leak around a tent zip or a door gap is not.
Light during the dark period is one of the most common causes of plants reverting to veg, producing airy buds, or turning hermaphrodite. If you must check on plants during lights-off, use a green headlamp — cannabis is largely insensitive to green light.
What temperature should my grow room be?
Seedling: 72–80°F (22–27°C). Vegetative: 70–82°F (21–28°C). Flowering: 68–78°F (20–26°C), and the lower end in late flower helps color and terpene retention.
Aim for a day/night difference under about 15°F (8°C). Large swings at lights-off drive the air toward dew point, which is when bud rot takes hold.
What humidity should I run at each stage?
Seedling: 65–75%. Veg: 50–65%. Early flower: 45–55%. Late flower: 40–50%.
But humidity alone is misleading — what the plant experiences is VPD, which combines it with temperature. The VPD chart in chapter 4 shows where your specific numbers land.
Do I need a dehumidifier?
In late flower, in a humid climate, very likely. Dense buds at 60%+ RH are where bud rot starts, and once it is inside a cola you have already lost that bud.
Be aware it is often the largest single power draw in the room after the light — budget for it in your running costs, not just the purchase.
How much airflow do I need?
Two separate jobs. Extraction exchanges the tent's full air volume every one to three minutes and carries heat, humidity and smell out. Circulation is oscillating fans inside moving air through the canopy, not just above it.
Circulation is the one people skip. Still air inside a dense canopy is where mold starts, and gentle stem movement measurably thickens stems. Aim air through the plants, never blasting directly at one spot.
My tent is too hot. What do I do?
In rough order of effectiveness and cost:
- Raise the light or dim it. Free, immediate.
- Increase extraction — heat leaves with the air.
- Run lights at night so the dark period covers the hottest hours.
- Move the ballast or driver outside the tent if the fixture allows.
- Air conditioning as a last resort — expensive to run.
Raising humidity slightly also helps the plant cope, because it lowers VPD and the plant can keep its stomata open.
What is PPFD and how do I measure it?
Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density: how many usable photons land on a square meter each second, in µmol/m²/s. It is the honest measure of light intensity — lumens and watts are not.
Measure with a PAR meter, or use the manufacturer's PPFD map for your hanging height. Phone apps are approximate but far better than guessing. Targets: seedling 200–400, veg 400–600, flower 600–900.
Is more light always better?
No. Past roughly 900–1000 PPFD without CO2 enrichment, the plant cannot use the extra photons — carbon becomes the limiting factor instead of light. You pay for electricity that produces nothing and add heat you then pay again to remove.
Light bleaching, where top buds go white and papery, is what over-lighting looks like.
Should I use CO2 enrichment?
Only once light, temperature, VPD and feeding are all already optimal, and intensity is high enough (900+ PPFD) that CO2 has actually become the limiting factor. That means a sealed room.
In a tent with an extraction fan running, added CO2 is being pulled straight outside. The money is better spent on a better light or a bigger tent first.
Chapter 09
OUTDOOR & SEASONS
Day length · timing · climate
Outdoors the sun is free and the schedule is not yours. Photoperiod plants flower when day length falls, which means your latitude decides your calendar — the same seed finishes weeks apart in Georgia and in Scotland.
Interactive
Outdoor season planner
Set your latitude. Day length is computed from solar declination for every day of the year, and the key dates come out of that curve.
When can I plant cannabis outdoors?
After the last frost, once night temperatures reliably hold above about 50°F (10°C). In much of the northern hemisphere that is mid-May into early June.
Planting earlier gains you very little: cold soil stunts roots, and a seedling that sits at 45°F (7°C) for a fortnight is often overtaken by one planted two weeks later. Use the planner above for your latitude — it shows when day length is long enough to keep plants in vegetative growth.
Why did my outdoor plant start flowering in June?
Almost certainly an autoflower, which ignores day length entirely and flowers on age.
If it is a photoperiod, it flowered because day length where you are had already dropped below its trigger — more likely at lower latitudes where the longest day is only 13–14 hours. It can also happen if a plant was started indoors under 12/12 and moved out, or if it experienced a sudden change in light hours.
Can I grow outdoors at high latitude?
Yes, but the season is short and the finish is the problem. Above roughly 50°N you get long summer days — excellent veg — but flowering does not begin in earnest until late August, and autumn rain arrives before many strains finish.
Two practical answers: pick fast-flowering indica-leaning strains that finish by late September, or grow autoflowers, which can be started in May and harvested in July, completely sidestepping the autumn.
How many outdoor harvests can I get in a year?
Photoperiods: one. They are locked to the season.
Autoflowers: two or three in a long warm season, because they run 8–11 weeks from seed regardless of day length. Start one batch in April, another in June, another in July if the autumn is mild.
This is the strongest practical argument for autoflowers outdoors and it is often overlooked.
Do outdoor plants yield more than indoor?
Per plant, dramatically — an outdoor photoperiod in the ground can reach 6–10ft and yield in kilos where an indoor plant yields in tens of grams. The sun delivers far more light than any fixture, for free.
Per square foot and per year, indoor usually wins, because you get three to five harvests instead of one and you control everything. They are not really competing on the same metric.
How do I protect outdoor plants from rain and mold?
Rain in the last four weeks is the main threat, because dense buds hold water and Botrytis starts inside.
- Choose airier sativa-leaning structures rather than dense indica colas if your autumn is wet
- Build a simple removable rain cover for the final weeks
- Shake plants gently after rain to throw water off
- Defoliate enough that air moves through the plant
- Harvest early rather than lose a crop — slightly under-ripe beats rotten
What size pot for outdoor growing?
In the ground if you can — unrestricted roots are why outdoor plants get so large. Otherwise 15–25 US gallons (57–95 L) for a full-season photoperiod, and 5–10 gallons (19–38 L) for an autoflower.
Fabric pots dry faster outdoors in wind and sun, so expect to water daily in peak summer. Bigger pots buy you slack on watering as much as they buy root mass.
Do I need to worry about neighbors seeing or smelling it?
Realistically, yes, in flower. Practical measures: grow where there is no sightline from a window or path, use companion planting so the silhouette does not read as cannabis, choose shorter indica-leaning or autoflowering plants over a 10ft sativa, and accept that the final few weeks smell.
Check your local plant-count and visibility rules before planning around any of this — in several jurisdictions plants being visible from a public place is itself the offense.
Can I move plants indoors and outdoors?
You can, and some growers do it to control flowering precisely, but consistency matters more than convenience. A photoperiod that gets 18 hours indoors and then 13 outdoors will be confused and may reveg or hermie.
If you are moving plants, keep the light schedule consistent — that usually means bringing them in at the same time each evening, every evening. Missing it once can undo weeks.
What is 'light deprivation' growing?
Covering outdoor plants with a blackout tarp for part of the day to force a 12/12 cycle before the season would naturally provide it. It lets outdoor growers harvest in midsummer and sometimes get two photoperiod crops in a year.
It works, but it is labor-intensive and unforgiving — the cover has to go on and come off at the same time daily, and it must be genuinely lightproof. Autoflowers achieve much of the same result with no labor at all.
Chapter 10
CALCULATORS & CONVERTERS
Six tools · all live arithmetic
These answer the questions we get asked most often by email. Every figure is computed from what you type — nothing here is a lookup of someone else's grow.
Harvest date planner
When will it actually be ready?
Yield estimator
A range, not a promise — grower skill moves this more than genetics do.
DLI & PPFD
PPFD is intensity. DLI is the total the plant actually receives in a day — that is the number that matters.
EC ↔ PPM converter
Three different PPM scales exist and meters rarely say which they use. This is the single most common source of accidental overfeeding.
Grow space planner
Plant count, pot size, light and extraction, sized from your footprint.
Nutrient mixing
Bottle says ml per liter, your reservoir is in gallons. Converts both ways.
What is DLI and why does it matter more than PPFD?
PPFD measures light intensity at a single moment. DLI (Daily Light Integral) measures the total the plant receives across the whole day, in mol/m²/day.
They can disagree completely. 400 PPFD for 18 hours delivers a DLI of about 26. 600 PPFD for 12 hours delivers about 26 as well — the same daily total from very different intensities. That is why a veg tent at moderate intensity on a long day can outgrow a brighter flower tent.
Rough targets: seedlings 15–25, vegetative 25–40, flowering 35–50. Above roughly 50 without CO2 enrichment you are paying for light the plant cannot use. The formula is simply PPFD × hours × 0.0036.
My meter reads PPM but the chart says EC. Which is right?
Both, and this trips up a lot of growers. EC (electrical conductivity, mS/cm) is the actual measurement. PPM is EC multiplied by a conversion factor — and there are three different factors in common use:
- 500 scale (Hanna, most US meters): EC × 500
- 640 / 650 scale (Eutech): EC × 640
- 700 scale (Truncheon, most EU meters): EC × 700
So EC 1.6 reads as 800 PPM, 1024 PPM or 1120 PPM depending purely on the meter. If a feed chart says '800 PPM' and your meter uses the 700 scale, following it literally underfeeds by about 30%. Work in EC wherever you can — it is unambiguous.
How much will one plant yield?
Honestly: it depends far more on you than on the seed. The same genetics in the same tent will yield two to three times more for an experienced grower than a first-timer, which is why the estimator above returns a range.
The useful planning figure is grams per watt of actual light draw. A first grow commonly lands around 0.5 g/W, a competent one 0.8–1.0, and a well-dialled room 1.2–1.5. So a 300W light might return 150g on a first attempt and 400g once you know what you are doing — same light, same seeds.
Treat any single-number yield claim, ours included, as a ceiling under ideal conditions.
What size pot do I need?
Roughly 2–3 US gallons (8–11 L) per 30cm / 1ft of final plant height, and the planner above sizes it from your space.
- Autoflowers: 3–5 gal (11–19 L), and plant into the final pot from the start — they have no time to recover from transplant shock.
- Photoperiod, small/SOG: 2–3 gal (8–11 L)
- Photoperiod, standard: 5–7 gal (19–26 L)
- Outdoor or large indoor: 10–25 gal (38–95 L) or straight into the ground
Too small restricts root mass and caps yield. Too large in a young plant stays wet too long and invites root problems — which is why potting up in stages is common for photoperiods.
What extraction fan size do I need?
Size it so the fan can exchange the tent's full air volume roughly every one to three minutes. In cubic feet: width × depth × height, divided by your target minutes.
A 4×4×6.5ft tent is 104 ft³, so a one-minute exchange needs about 104 CFM. Then add roughly 25% for a carbon filter and more for ducting bends — filters are a significant restriction. The planner above does this arithmetic for you.
Buy larger than you need and run it on a speed controller. An oversized fan turned down is quiet; an undersized one at full tilt is loud and still inadequate.
How do I convert a feed chart from liters to gallons?
One US gallon is 3.785 liters. So a bottle saying 2 ml/L means 7.57 ml per US gallon. The mixing tool above handles it including half-strength dosing.
Two habits worth adopting: mix into water rather than water into concentrate, and add nutrients one at a time with a stir between — calcium and phosphate concentrates will precipitate into a useless sludge if they meet undiluted.
Chapter 11
GROWER GLOSSARY
52 terms · searchable
Every term used on this page, plus the ones you will meet on forums and product labels. Filter by name or category.
Cannabis that flowers on age rather than light schedule, thanks to ruderalis ancestry. Runs 8–11 weeks seed to harvest and cannot be usefully cloned.
Crossing an offspring back to one of its parents to lock in that parent's traits. Written BX1, BX2 and so on.
The small leaf-like structure that holds the ovule and swells with resin. What people usually mean when they say ‘calyx’.
Botrytis cinerea. Gray fungal rot that starts inside dense buds where moisture cannot escape. Prevention only — by the time it shows outside, the core is gone.
Calcium and magnesium supplement. Frequently needed in coco and under strong LEDs, where these are stripped or used faster than base nutrients supply them.
Chemical compounds produced in trichomes. THC, CBD, CBG and CBN are the best known of well over a hundred.
The chemical profile of a plant — its cannabinoid and terpene makeup — as opposed to its physical appearance.
A rooted cutting, genetically identical to its mother. The only way to reproduce a plant exactly.
Coconut husk fiber used as an inert growing medium. Hydroponic behavior with some of soil's physical forgiveness.
A cluster of buds forming along a stem. The main cola is the top one.
The first two rounded leaves a seedling produces. Not true leaves — they are the seed's own stored food.
Storing dried flower in sealed jars so chlorophyll breaks down and moisture redistributes. Where harshness goes away.
Daily Light Integral. Total light delivered over a day in mol/m². PPFD × hours × 0.0036.
Electrical conductivity in mS/cm — the unambiguous measure of nutrient strength. Prefer it to PPM.
First-generation cross between two distinct parents. Shows strong hybrid vigor but wide variation between plants.
‘F*** I Missed’ — a partial topping cut that can produce four or more tops instead of two. Less predictable than topping.
Seed bred to produce only female plants, made by reversing a female to produce pollen. No male chromosome involved.
Running plain pH-corrected water through the medium, either to correct salt buildup or in the final weeks before harvest.
A plant producing both female buds and male pollen sacs. Usually a stress response; will seed the whole room.
Integrated Pest Management. Preventing and controlling pests with layered methods rather than relying on one spray.
Traditionally short, broad-leaved, fast-flowering plants from mountainous regions. Increasingly a marketing label rather than a botanical one.
Low Stress Training. Bending and tying branches to open the canopy without cutting. Safe on autoflowers.
A population that adapted to one region over centuries without deliberate human crossing. The raw material of every modern hybrid.
Removing lower growth that will never get enough light, so the plant puts its energy into the top canopy.
A plant kept permanently in veg to take cuttings from. Only possible with photoperiods.
The point where a leaf or branch joins the stem. Nodes are where preflowers appear and where you top.
Nutrient burn. Crispy brown leaf tips from feeding too strongly. Damaged tips do not recover.
Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density. Light intensity at canopy in µmol/m²/s. The honest measure — lumens are not.
Parts per million. Nutrient strength, but on one of three different scales (500, 640, 700) which are not interchangeable.
White volcanic glass added to medium for aeration and drainage. Roots need oxygen as much as water.
Growing a large population from seed to find the few standout individuals worth keeping as mothers.
How a specific plant actually turns out — the expression of its genetics in its environment. Two seeds from one pack can differ markedly.
Cannabis that flowers in response to light hours, needing 12/12 to start. Can be cloned and held in veg indefinitely.
The hair-like structures on a female flower that catch pollen. White when young, darkening as the plant matures.
Early sex indicators at the nodes, appearing around week 4–6. How you sex regular seed.
Unmodified seed producing roughly 50/50 male and female plants. Needed for breeding.
A flowering plant reverting to vegetative growth, usually after light interruption. Produces distorted growth.
Cannabis ruderalis. Wild, small, low-yield subspecies from northern latitudes whose autoflowering trait underlies every modern auto.
Screen of Green. Growing through a net and weaving branches horizontally for an even canopy. Highest yield per watt of the common methods.
Sea of Green. Many small plants flipped early rather than a few large ones. Fast turnaround, minimal training.
Silver thiosulphate. The chemical used to reverse a female plant so it produces pollen, which is how feminized seed is made.
Traditionally tall, narrow-leaved, long-flowering plants from equatorial regions. Like ‘indica’, now looser than it sounds.
Literally ‘without seed’ — unpollinated female flower. What almost all modern cannabis is.
The rapid height gain in the first 2–3 weeks after the 12/12 flip. Most strains roughly double.
Deliberately crushing the inner tissue of a stem so it bends without breaking, redirecting growth and thickening the stem.
Aromatic compounds giving cannabis its smell and flavor. Volatile, so heat and rough handling destroy them.
Cutting the growing tip above a node to create two main stems instead of one. Do it in veg.
The resin glands producing cannabinoids and terpenes. Reading their color is how harvest timing is decided.
Vapour Pressure Deficit. Temperature and humidity combined into one number describing how hard air pulls moisture from leaves.
Vegetative stage. Leaf and stem growth before flowering. You control its length with photoperiods; autos do not give you the choice.
Trimming leaves immediately after harvest rather than after drying. Faster and easier, but dries the flower more quickly.
Acidity of the root zone. Decides which nutrients roots can absorb. Soil 6.0–7.0, coco and hydro 5.5–6.5.
No term matches that.
LET US HELP YOU GROW YOUR PASSION
SHIPPING
Domestic Shipping (Within Legal Regions)
- USPS, FedEx, UPS – Use tracked and insured services. Most orders arrive within 5 days.
- Discrete Packaging – No branding or cannabis-related markings.
- Stealth Shipping Methods – Seeds come packaged with other products.
- Temperature Control (If Needed) – Avoid extreme heat/cold exposure.
PACKAGING
Primary Packaging (Seed Containment)
- Foil Mylar Bags – Lightproof, moisture-resistant, and durable.
- Plastic Tubes/Vials – Reusable, crush-proof, and UV-resistant.
- Blister Packs – Retail-friendly, tamper-evident, and easy to display.
SEEDS
Regular Seeds & (LANDRACE SEEDS) (Natural male/female ratio, used for breeding and large scale outdoor farms)
Feminized Seeds (99% female plants, ideal for growers seeking buds without hassle)
Autoflowering Seeds (Flower based on age, not light cycles—faster harvests)
CHAT WITH US
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